How to tell if silver jewellery is real

Silver jewellery is widely collected and worn, yet many people are unsure how to tell whether a piece is genuinely silver or simply silver-coloured. Hallmarks, wear patterns, and construction details can all offer clues, but not every silver item will show the same signs. This guide explains how jewellers and collectors assess silver jewellery, and why some methods are more reliable than others.

Look for hallmarks — but don’t rely on them alone

The most reliable indicator of silver in the UK is a hallmark. British silver is usually marked with a series of symbols that confirm metal purity and testing by an assay office. Common marks include:

• 925 or Sterling, indicating sterling silver (92.5% pure)

• The lion passant, used on English silver

• A town mark, showing where the piece was assayed

• A maker’s mark, identifying the silversmith, or a sponsor's mark if someone other than the silversmith applies hallmarking

If present and genuine, these marks confirm that an item is silver. However, the absence of a hallmark does not automatically mean a piece is not silver. Small items, very old jewellery, imports, and pieces made for export were not always marked in the same way.

Understand that not all silver is marked

Before compulsory hallmarking was enforced, silver items could be sold unmarked. Even after hallmarking laws were established, there were exemptions based on weight and purpose. Some genuine silver jewellery may also have had marks worn away through polishing or long-term wear.

Imported silver can further complicate identification. Continental European silver often uses different standards, such as 800 or 835, and some antique pieces may carry unfamiliar symbols rather than British hallmarks.

Examine wear and patina

Real silver ages in a particular way. Over time, sterling silver develops a soft patina, often darkening slightly in recesses while remaining lighter on raised areas. This natural oxidation is difficult to replicate convincingly.

Silver-plated or silver-coloured jewellery, by contrast, often shows:

• Yellow or copper tones where plating has worn away

• Uneven wear revealing a base metal beneath

• A lack of depth or softness in surface ageing

A consistent patina, especially in hard-to-reach areas, is often a good sign of genuine silver.

Be cautious with at-home tests

Some commonly suggested tests can be misleading:

• Magnet test: Silver is not magnetic, but many non-silver metals are also non-magnetic. This test can rule something out, but not confirm it.

• Ice test: Silver conducts heat well, but this test is unreliable for small items.

• Sound test: Tapping silver to hear a “ring” requires experience and is not definitive.

Chemical acid tests can damage jewellery and should only be used by professionals. For valuable or sentimental pieces, testing by a jeweller or assay office is always preferable.

Weight and feel can offer clues

Silver has a noticeable heft compared to many imitation metals. A piece that feels unusually light for its size may not be solid silver. That said, hollow construction was used historically, so weight alone should never be the sole indicator.

The surface feel of silver is also distinctive — often described as smooth but not glassy, with a subtle warmth rather than a cold or brittle sensation.

Construction and craftsmanship

The way a piece is made can be just as telling as any mark. Antique and vintage silver jewellery often shows signs of hand-finishing, such as slight asymmetry, individually set stones, or soldered joints rather than glued components.

Modern costume jewellery frequently relies on casting, adhesives, or thin plating, which can appear convincing at first glance but lack the durability and refinement of solid silver work.

When to seek professional advice

If you are unsure about a piece, a reputable jeweller can usually assess whether it is silver with minimal intrusion. For items of higher value, an assay office can provide definitive confirmation.

For collectors, sellers, and buyers alike, learning to recognise genuine silver is as much about observation as it is about testing. Over time, patterns become easier to spot.

A final thought

Telling whether silver jewellery is real rarely comes down to a single test. Hallmarks, wear, construction, and context all matter. Understanding these elements not only helps identify silver but also deepens appreciation for the craftsmanship and history behind each piece.